Shade

250 W 19th St.
713.863.7500

I thought I had reviewed Shade before, but I haven't. This restaurant in the heights is a pretty good neighborhood joint. It is beautiful modern restaurant with soft light colors minimal decoration and maximum attention to detail.

We usually have brunch here and start with the large plate of pastries. These warm goodies don't last long on our table and I'm always tempted to order another round. But at $12 for a large plate, it is a little pricey--like the rest of the menu.

I've tried the burger, challah french toast, and southern fried chicken breast. All are well thought-out classics that are modernized, streamlined and carefully prepared. The burger comes thick, moist and juicy. The french toast is chewy, fragrant and tasty. The chicken breast is thinly-crusted, evenly-cooked, and healthy for something fried.

Shade is one of those restaurans you go to for clean tastes, a local feel, and upscale uppitiness. It's run by Claire Smith who used to own Daily Review Cafe (sold in 2000). Her love for fresh ingredients and careful preparation have won me over--despite the lack of innovative flavors.