Kiran's

Located just west of the railroad tracks, Bombay Palace just changed hands a few months ago. Rather than a New York ocmpany at the helm, we have the esteemed Kirin Verma, a Houston treasure. Formerly owner of Ashiana, Kirin sold her acclaimed restaurant for a chance to come inside the loop.

The restaurant is still called Bombay Palace, but that will change to Kirin's soon. What will also change is the decor. Gone will be the 1980's business glamour. We were told she intends to put in a wine room and make this place more a reflection of her sophistication.

The food? We had the tandoori feast for two ($55). It's a dish short of a complete meal, but was a great treat anyway. It comes with lamb, chicken and prawn tandoori. The chicken had good juice and the lamb had deep flavor. The prawn, really a shrimp, left something to be desired. It was overcooked and completely bland.

But the stars of the night were not the main courses. Instead, concentrate on two sides: saag paneer and dahl. Saag paneer usually comes soggy with grease. Kirin's saag paneer comes laden with a good cream mixed with spinach taste. The dahl? It was soo well spiced, I didn't recognize the dish despite having eaten it dozens of times.

Service was slow. Food was slightly inconsistent. The decor needed work. But give Kirin a few months. When her staff leanrs the ropes, the restaurant looks elegant, and the kitchen staff figure out timing, this restaurant will be nationally known and Rekha and I will have to start making reservations rather than just walking in.